Hin's 3rd C.O.U.N.T 1,000,000 steps (Sep 19TH – Oct 12th 2011)

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2: Walking History

Thean Hin Ooi <ooithin@gmail.com>  Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 12:31 AM

Sorry, opportunities to access the internet in Shanxi thus far has been dismal.

Shanxi people has been known to be thrifty and hence very few/none internet cafe, at least in the town of Youyu.

Anyway, after 9 days of continuous hiking/climbing this old horse is pretty much still kicking up dust though progress has been slow largely due to the mountainous "West Mountain" province. Thus far, covered about 188KM (average of 21/day).

Surprisingly, arrive in Tianjin 10 minutes early on AirAsia-X on Sep17, took bullet train (top speed 253kmph) to Beijing and met up with my Singaporean friends. Had the best Peking duck (certificate 181107) at Quanjude Roast Duck restaurant in Wangfuxjing, before we took the overnight train to Datong.

Promptly arrived on Sep18 at 6:03am, met CH, had a quick breakfast and off to find our way to the starting point of Laoniuwan, en route encountered trucks and trucks laden with coal, and near Qingshuihe were caught in a massive jam. Some of the trucks were stuck for the last 4 days and the locals took the opportunity to feed them for cash. Shanxi is sometimes referred to as the "dirtiest" province because of its abundance of coal and charcoal, with thousands of trucks transporting them 24x7.

CH somehow managed to skirt around it using the country lanes.

Our friend AL was delayed coming in from Inner Mongolia and we decided to go pick him up in Qingshuihe, where to our good fortune "discovered" a newly opened road all the way to Laoniuwan. With AL, the 5 (CH, KB, KQ, Al and I) of us made our way there reaching around 7:30pm, were offered decent rest house facilities with dinner for the night - bed was RMB10/pax though the fish alone cost RMB108 for dinner - though it was supposed to be from the HuangHe river just outside the house.

Sep19 - Day1 Hike: 07:00 – 18:25.  Laoniuwan – Nanzhuangwo. (20.2km).

The original plan of going to Wanjiazhia then a boat cruise down the river to start the track on the Mongolian side was shelved. As now we were in Laoniuwan, and just as well, as the river level was so low to be able to accord the splendid views.

Instead the excited party (KB,KQ,AL &I) climbed down the treacherous slopes of the HuangHe river 20m below to a tiny boat to ferry us across, climbed up another 20m to the first wall meeting the river. All still hunky dory, taking photos and smiling.

After 4 mountains and 12KM, agony was evident, and young Singa broke down with muscle spasm and we were lucky CH was on hand to take him away for a comfortable rest.

The 3 remaining continued on to the village of Nanzhuangwo, where we met a pleasant Mr Chuen who offered us food and stay for the night - noodles, chicken, vege - wonderful meal. Slept on the warm "kang", used the traditional "bombing" pit and left very early the next day. Managed 18.1KM.

Sep20 - Day2: 06:00 – 18:10.  Nanzhuangwo – Shuiquanxiang. (26 km).

The 3 rose and left Mr. Chuen's at 6:00am, and soon we were puffing and huffing traversing 4 deep ravines of 150m. Beautiful scenery, well worth the pain. The Shanxi wall divides the fine line between China and Mongolia, and we must have walked half the time in each country.

Young Singa recovered and re-joined us for the last 8 KM to the rest house in Shuiquanxiang. Pretty good distance of 26.3KM, with a total ascent of 1354m.

Decent dwellings and food for the dinner. Towelled down and went to bed with spirits still upbeat, unbeknown and for some to find out and lose some sleep over the notorious continuously passing coal trucks. We are extremely fortunate to have AL (the expert on the Great Walls of China) with us, relating the wonderful history and purported military strategy of the location of each side of the wall, the tower, and even every stone - what a walking dictionary/guide/stor­y teller.

Have to stop for now, as I had to get up early tomorrow to continue my 10th day's walk with AL.

Till next, all the very best.

Rgds,
Hin