Finally, around 5pm, on the 20th of October, 2016, we reached our destination, Laolongtou – Old Dragon Head. For me, this is the culmination of my misson of “C.O.U.N.T 1,000,000 steps“ – a marvelous, humbling journey of a lifetime – which has taken 7 trips over an eight year period.
Yes, of course, it all about the journey, not the destination – incredible fortune to experience compassion, optimism, unity, nature and the happy faces of tommorow, each at their very best.
Met so many "angels" along the way, the ever smiling and helpful shepherds; the grinning shop keeper who offered a free apple; the concerned villager who put me on a bus to Wuwei city instead of walking another 10km to the highway; the orchard family who offered tea and the juiciest apple from their farm; the playing children whose laughter guided me out of the darkness; the young man who offered his humble dwellings with dinner for the night; the kindest Wang family who, without the slighest hesitation, took us in, in our greatest hour of need, when his neighbour ignored us, and so many many more.
18/10/2016. 06:30 – 16:15 11.8km. 21,454 steps. TA 667m. ME 488m.
Liaoning junction – Loujiagoucun (娄家沟村) - Jiumenkoucun (九门口村)
Together with Lao Liu, we arrived at the Liaoning junction and started up the wall to the tri-boundary confluence and met many excited early sunrise watchers coming down – gosh, we just missed the sunrise by minutes. This mountainous stretch being a strong natural barrier, there was little need for many towers. But for the few, they are tall and huge, so as to be able to overlook the mountain edges. There are also a few “eye-less“ (without windows) watch towers, completely filled inside by earth, with just an entrance and stairs leading to the top. I was visibly impressed by the majestic towers and decided to leave “geocashe“ #7 in a tower standing at an elevation of 345m. We reached the gap at Loujiagoucun around 1:00pm, and with another 6km to Jiumenkou, we decided to exit, walked to the village and called to be picked up. Drinks and rest at the xiaomaipu, and in time, CH came round and took us to Jiumenkoucun where he had arranged for our homestay for the night.
We arrived at the impressive Juimenkou (9 watergates pass) Bridge – a 100m wall across the Jiujiang river, which is supported on 8 piers and 9 arches. Embedded on the river bed are 7,000 sq. meters of rectangular granite stone slabs, held together by iron chain links, as one enormous piece. Thus it is also known as Yipianshi Pass (一块石口 – “One Stone Piece Pass“). This is the only section of the Great Wall that was built as a bridge. The 1.7km solidly built Jiumenkou Great Wall which terminates at the mountain-side, has 12 towers, 2 beacon towers with an inbuilt walled city at each end of the bridge, forming a strong complete military defence system.
Additionally, the Ming General Xu Da directed a 1km long secret tunnel to be carved out in the mountain and ran under the wall, with two exits and one entrance. It was used to station troops, store weapons and food, and sneak to the back of enemies during wartime.
We spent quite some time exploring the fascinating 9 gates structure, and hiked to end of the wall by the mountain, pondering whether it’s possible to cross, before returning to the homestay for our shower, dinner and the night.
19/10/2016. 06:45 – 17:30. 15.2km 27,873 steps. TA 1427m ME 556m.
Jiumenkoucun – Loujiagoucun.
Sandaoguan (三道关 – 3 Barrier Pass) – Jiaoshan (角山 – Horn Peak)
As we stayed over at Jiumenkou, we decided to hike from here back to Loujiagoucun, starting from an apple orchard and climbing up the tower via a side window opening. It was then up to the top of the tower and proceeded along the wall. I was mesmerised by the wonderful view of the beautifully constructed 9 watergates bridge wall, and the adjoining walled-in cities. A challenging long morning trek down and up the Miaoshankou valley, along the mountain ridge to the exit point at Luojiaguocun. Decided to leave “geocashe“ #8 in a strong tower standing at an elevation of 443m. On our descent, we met 2 excited hiking parties out for the day, these local tourists not only came to hike the Great Wall but also to enjoy the delicious fuji apples from the numerous orchards.
It was just after noon, when CH took us to Sandaoguan – what a magical sight we were accorded as we stood above the 3 lines of barriers (2, across the ravine between the 2 mountains, and 1 further up the mountain). I was awe-strucked at the Great Wall erected on dizzying slopes, with some sections at 70 degrees in steepness, and giving the appearance of a giant dragon suddenly rushing down to the bottom of the valley, and then surging forward to the top of the cliff of the opposite mountain. And in its rush down the east wall, it left behind one of its talons, stuck hanging on the slope. This east section with walls virtually hanging at 70 degrees is just too difficult and dangerous to scale down to. Even though I did carry a 100ft mil-spec 550 paracord, AL would not entertain the thought, he didn’t fancy hanging by the rope. In any case, there are at least 2 sections where one would need ropes to get to and back up.
So we took the grueling west section to Jiaoshan, where many parts of the Wall are in poor condition and craggy, forcing us to use mountain trails, overgrown with thorny shrubs and bushes, to bypass dangerous parts. Even though there were some red cloth markers, it was so easy to make the wrong decision and take the wrong route. As the daylight started to fade, AL became more and more anxious, as we hurriedly wandered over the mountains, making sure that we were always right on track with ample time to reach the Jiaoshan exit. This trek was difficult, at times dangerous, interspersed with beautiful and awesome views.
It was only when we reached Dapingding Peak (大平顶 - Big Flat Summit), the main peak of Jiaoshan Mountain that I saw the relief in AL’s face. Unfortunately, it was getting dark and we missed the opportunity to enjoy the panoramic view of Yansai Lake, and the Changshou (Longevity) Mountain Scenic Area. Apparently on a very good day, one could get a full shot of the Jiaoshan Great Wall and Shanhaiguan City, and even Laolongtou Great Wall and the Bohai Sea in the distance.
We followed the ancient derelict wall down, climbed over a cemented wall and across to Tower #3 in the restored section of Jiaoshan Great Wall. Made our way down, through iron climbing rings on the side of each of the huge tower, to the wall and then on to the exit. It was already dark and CH was waiting to whisk us to a hotel in Shanhaiguan city, where we checked-in, and off to a seafood restaurant for dinner. Today’s hike turned out to be the most difficult and challenging for the whole trip and I’m immensely grateful to AL for his guidance.
20/10/2016. 11:30 – 17:00. 14.5km 26,392 steps. TA 152m. ME 232m.
Jiaoshan – Shanhaiguan (山海關 – Mountain-Sea Pass) – Laolongtou (老龙头 – Old Dragon Head).
We received most welcomed news that Richard and Ben shall be making a day trip from Beijing, on the train, to join the final leg of our journey. While waiting for their arrival, we paid a visit to the comprehensive Shanhaiguan museum, which brought back great memories of our journey as well as insights on the history of China and the Great Wall.
Promptly they did arrived at 11:00am and promptly we proceeded to the Gate of the Jiaoshan Great Wall, and hiked the restored section from the Hanmen Pass up to Tower #3. In the bright daylight, I could clearly make out the two craggy rocks on the peak which resemble two horns of a dragon, thus Jiaoshan - Horn Peak. The entrances to the massive towers are elevated about 5m above the wall, and today, for the convinience of visitors, there are fascinating iron-ringed climbing stairs to reach them.
We then came back down to the exit Gate of the Jiaoshan Great Wall and followed the continuation wall south towards Shanhaiguan; entered the fortress via the north entrance (gate tower had been demolished) and was greeted by the welcoming thuds of the famous Shanhaiguan peanut cake with ground millet and honey, being pounded into a delicious gooey chunk. Bought a couple of boxes and turned east towards the famed gate tower, 'First Pass Under Heaven' (天下第一关 - Tianxia Diyiguan).
Shanhaiguan was the most important pass of the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty, protecting the corridor between China and its then strongest rival Manchu neighbours. It was the most important frontier defence, and it signaled the end of the Ming Dynasty when the Manchu marched through it.
The Battle of Shanhaiguan, on 27 May 1644 was a decisive battle leading to the formation of the Qing dynasty in China. The Qing Prince Regent Dorgon allied with former Ming General Wu Sangui to defeat rebel leader Li Zicheng of the Shun dynasty, allowing the Manchus to conquer Beijing and replace the Ming dynasty.
Onward, we went along the broken wall and the city streets to Laolongtou, where the east end of the Ming Great Wall meets the Bohai Sea. When viewed from a distance, the square Jinglu beacon tower on the beach looks uncannily like a raised reptilian head, with the 22m seaward wall extension, resembling a mouth, and the narrower landward wall, a neck. It is like a huge dragon lying with its head on the beach and its mouth in the sea.
Finally, around 5pm, on the 20th of October, 2016, we reached our destination, Laolongtou – Old Dragon Head. For me, this is the culmination of my misson of “C.O.U.N.T 1,000,000 steps“ – a marvelous, humbling journey of a lifetime – which has taken 7 trips over an eight year period.
This year, I COUNTed 502,730 steps (275.1km), which in sum, totals 5,658,383 steps (3,033.8km) for the 7 trips from Jiayuguan to Laolongtou. We had our farewell dinner, whence Richard and Ben returned to Beijing, Lao Liu intends to continue his hike from the Liaoning junction to Hushan in Dandong and Chen Huai shall make his way back to Shandan. Andreas and I shall go Beijing the following day and then to our home country, 2 days hence.
My sincere thanks to Bryan, Kim and members of the Great Wall Forum, for their invaluable input; Chen Huai, Kin, who helped initiated the start; my utmost gratitude to Andreas, who not only mapped out the tracks but who later joined me on the walk all the way; and the many friends (KQ, KB, Junji, LiZhou, Richard, Ben) who took turns and time off to join in, boosting our morale and the joy of great camaraderie.
I am eternally indebted to family and friends for their unwavery support, encourangements and constant prayers for my safety, health, happiness and sense of peace.
My special thanks goes to my China host in Beijing, Li Meng and family, who has over the years help facilitated my travel to and from my starting points, and never failing to generously offer a scrumptious dinner at the end of each. This year’s was exceptionally memorable, when his family and a couple of friends hosted us in a Yunnan-nese restuarant with delightful food, the best baijiu and most wonderful company.
Many have asked about my physical well-being, and am glad to assure all, that apart from a crooked left foot, a Baker’s cyst on my right knee, and tired old bones, everything else is great.
Many have also enquired, what’s the next journey. Well, “legs willing“, I shall accompany Andreas on his 1,000km expedition of the Jin Dynasty (金朝:1115 -1234) Great Wall, along the Mongolian steppes – it shall be my “C.O.U.N.T 1,000,000 trots“. When? when he has learned how to say “where is the next xiaomaipu?“ in Mongolian.
I shall now take a long rest, reflect on the experiences of this once-in-a lifetime's journey, and to dream more .... hoping to turn at least one more into another dare.
And lastly, blessed all those who donated to a good cause and a gentle reminder to share in the joy of giving, please donate to your favourite charity.
C.O.U.N.T – Compassion, Optimism, Unity, Nature and Tomorrow.
"Every fortunate person to demonstrate the Compassion of one's heart and donate to the destitute and needy, so that together we can share and partake in the Optimism and hope for the Unity of all peoples to preserve the wonders and beauty of Nature for our children of Tomorrow."